The
journey to Looj Ceeb was an arduous trip, taking the Zos Hav Xyoob villagers to
the town of Sam Thong first. As new
refugees, they were not permitted to enter Looj Ceeb until they went through
proper health examinations and documentations in Sam Thong—Copper Marsh, or Lima Site 20. It was a mountain ridge town almost a day’s
walk from Looj Ceeb. It had about a
population of 8,000 residents and was located north of Looj Ceeb but southwest
of the Plain of Jars. The town had a
dusty, dry red airstrip surrounded by karts and sat along a clear flowing pristine
mountain stream. Some of the town’s
surrounding trees have been cut down to use as fire wood but the few scattered
pine trees still stood tall. Downfield
of Sam Thong were valleys of thorny bushes and purple fountain grasses.
While
Looj Ceeb was the CIA-supported base for guerrilla operations against the communists,
Sam Thong was headquarter of USAID operations in northern Laos. It served as the center for refugee
assistance as well as standard aid programs, and kept its own hospital and
school. Sam Thong was the only town to occasionally
receive foreign journalists.
With
the exception of a few policemen—the civilian town of Sam Thong was emptied of any soldiers. The day was pouring rain and the temperature
was cold so even civilians were not visible outside. When the two policemen guarding the gate to
Sam Thong spotted the new group of refugees, they ran over. After speaking quickly to the village chief,
the two policemen led the group to a building that sat on the northeastern side
of the airfield. It was made out of
wooden planks painted a light sky-blue color and wooden black shingle roofing. The facility included some operable
square-shaped aluminum windows with tempered glass to permit the passage of
light and ventilation, and two opposing-opened wooden steps on the outside that
connected with the main entrance. Inside
the building, there were rows of evenly-spaced red plastic chairs. Office spaces took half of the building.
A
group of 10 men and women—mostly Westerners but a few Filipinos and one Hmong
medic greeted the newly arrivals. The policemen
handed the group over to the staff and left.
An
American man, who seemed to be in charge, spoke to the group through the
interpretation of the Hmong medic.
“Everyone, please have a sit,” he instructed. “We will come by to examine you all for
health problems. Anyone with severe
issues will be sent to the main hospital.
Those who are in good health will be given some vaccinations before
proceeding to your living quarter.”
The
Hmong medic interpreted.
The
healthcare team then initiated the health examination and vaccination
processes. For many Hmong including Niam
Tais Paj and Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua, this was their first exposure to Western
medicine. The women were especially
embarrassed and uncomfortable when the male doctors rolled their sleeves and touched
their bared arms to vaccinate them. Some
even refused the vaccination but the Hmong medic urged them that it was
essential and assured their husbands that they would not lose face. Although the majority of the villagers were confirmed
to be in good health, there were a few children and elders who were found to have
caught cold viruses from the heavy rain and were immediately sent to Sam Thong
Hospital.
Those
who were in good health were released and given food and shelter provided by
USAID. Silver bars were useless in Sam
Thong so USAID gave each household a few thousand kips and told them to use the
portion to support their family for the time being. The group was then separated and made to live
in different parts of the town.
Niam
Tais Paj, Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua, and Noog Xi were assigned to a place near Sam
Thong’s opened-market. When they were
guided and approached their new housing area, the sun had already set. Although the living quarter had glass windows
and brown wooden planks like the clinic, it had tin shingle roofing and sat on
dirt flooring. It resembled traditional
thatched homes with a small bedroom at the back while the main space at the
front served all other purposes.
When
Noog Xi stepped inside the new home, the air was warm as the tin roof exacerbated
the heat of the sun. With only a single bedroom,
she insisted that Niam Tais and Yawm Txiv sleep inside the single bedroom while
she laid a red peony pattern lev—mat,
in the living area and made it her bed.
It
had turned pitch-dark when the threesome finished unpacking. Exhausted, Noog Xi fell fast asleep on the
hard, dirt floor despite the clanking sounds of pots and pans clashing against
one another as Niam Tais Paj prepared dinner.
***
When
she opened her eyes the next morning, she could feel that her body ached all
over from the long journey to Sam Thong.
Her stomach was also growling nonstop.
It was already bright inside the living area and she saw Niam Tais Paj hovering
over a pot a few feet away. She got up
with tired eyes and went to brush up at the water area. Each household was assigned a reddish-brown
clay jar and boys and girls could wash themselves out in the open together,
which made her a little nervous since she never had to share. Near the two rows of earth jars, there were
also two separate toilets, housed inside wooden plank shelters. The toilets did not flush with a metal handle
but with a bucket of water.
Lucky
for her, no one came out to wash that morning.
After feeling clean, she returned to the kitchen. Niam Tais Paj already made the morning meal,
and urged her niece and husband to eat.
They
ate.
Afterward,
Niam Tais Paj and Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua went out to tour the town. They invited their niece to tag along since she
no longer had a job and had nothing else to do for the day. But she refused them, and stayed home instead.
She assured the couple that she would
browse the nearby market if she became bored.
Feeling
satisfied with her answer, the husband and wife left.
Noog
Xi grabbed a chair and sat down near the living room window, watching people
passed to and from the market. There
were a few lowland Lao, Mien, and American adult —including old couples with
arms locked together. But standing
roughly a feet shorter than the Westerners were her people. Men, women, and children—the older ones still
adhered to traditional clothing but many young ones have on Western attire
instead. Khaki shorts or pants, button-up
shirts, t-shirts, belts, and snickers were the dominant styles many young men
and boys sported. Girls, on the other
hand, opted for either short knee-length Lao skirts or long Lao sarong with a
nice blouse. The ones who were financially
better off even wore heels. Instead of
tying their hair into a bun or wearing a purple turban, the girls’ hairs were
either down-loose or tied into a pony-tail.
The town’s market presented to Noog Xi, an interesting sight. It was something that resembled Hanoi more
than Nong Het, with the exception that the majority of the residents were Hmong
instead of Vietnamese.
A
few hours passed and Niam Tais and Yawm Txiv have yet to return. She was getting bored. So, she decided to visit the market, but in
traditional clothes. Since she started
living with Niam Tais Paj and Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua, other than teaching the
village children, Noog Xi have learned to avoid wearing Western clothing for
protection. It had now become a habit
for her.
The
sun was bright that afternoon, so the young woman decided to leave her umbrella
behind. At the entrance to the market, she
bought a hand bamboo-woven basket from a lowland Lao couple with the money that
her youngest brother provided to her many moons ago. Then, as she made her way into the market,
she realized that the market was expansive.
It had opposing stalls of vegetable and fruits, meat, sweets, restaurants,
clothing, shoe vendors, and many more things that were new to her.
Noog
Xi browsed through the vegetable and fruit stands, picking and buying
vegetables for dinner and fruits for Niam Tais and Yawm Txiv. She also bought two pounds of fresh pork because
her jaws were tired of chewing dried and smoked beef jerky. After purchasing the pork, a fresh and sweet
fragrant slickly and suddenly traveled to her nose. She turned her head to follow the scent and
it took her to a stall two vendors down from the pork vendors. When she got there, she realized that the aroma
came from some fresh baked bread. She hadn’t
eaten any sweet bread since the days that she had been living in Sidney.
After
buying some stuffed-taro sweet bread from an amiable baker, Noog Xi decided
that she had shopped enough and would return home. But on her way, she was distracted by a group
of boys bullying a little girl that she did not realize someone was running in
and crashing into her. The only thing
she knew next was lying on the ground with pain.
She
steadily pulled herself up, and realized that there were dirt on her hands and
clothes. Although the sun shone that day,
the dirt path was wet and muddy from the rain the day prior.
Noog
Xi rubbed the dirt away from her hands and clothes. She grabbed her hand basket and was relieved to
find that nothing had dropped out from it.
She looked to the children who’d grabbed her attention earlier, and
found them staring bewilderingly at her misfortune. They have stopped fighting, and skipped away
when realizing that she was not injured anywhere.
About
to get up, she finally heard someone moaning close to her and got on her knees
to observe. There was a middle-age Western
man was lying on the ground, and papers scattered all around him. She quickly set her hand basket to the side
and rushed over to help him up.
“I’m
sorry. Are you okay?” she blurted out in
English, as she then helped lift the man back to a standing position.
“I
should be the one apologizing to you, darling, being the one on a rush and
running over you. But thank you for
helping me.”
“As
long as you’re okay, there’s no hard feeling on my part,” she answered.
“Wait
a minute,” the Western man said, and stared shockingly at Noog Xi. He was slim and bald, wore a pair of glasses,
and was not very tall. He looked like he
had retired from the work force. His
white dress-shirt sleeves were rolled up to his elbows and he wore a black
dress-pant, dirtied with mud all over. “You are a Hmong girl, and you just
spoke to me in English?” He asked
surprisingly, as if she was the first ever Hmong girl he’d met with such skill.
The
man’s question startled Noog Xi. She had
promised Niam Tais Paj never to disclose to anyone of her foreign language
ability, for that revelation may be the knife that would cut her throat. But her tongue had accidently slipped out her
English ability, for it was the natural thing to do when approached by
Westerners.
“Why
are you not answering? Am I getting old
and having a hearing problem or did you really speak in English to me?”
Noog
Xi stared at the man expressionlessly, not knowing how to answer. After a few seconds of millions of thoughts
running through her mind, she decided to nod.
A
smile spread across the man’s face. He
quickly bent down to pick up the scattered papers, and handed a piece to the
girl. “What does that flyer say?” he
asked curiously.
She
glanced at the paper and then at the man again.
“Operation Brotherhood—hill tribe nurses needed. Anyone interested, show up in front of the
hospital on 7/15/1965.”
“Amazing!”
the American man commented astonishing.
“Since my coming here, I’ve never met a Hmong girl with your ability. Where did you learn to speak English so
fluently?”
“At
school.”
“I
am indeed, impressed.” He took a few
seconds to get his excitement out. “Let
me introduce myself. My name is Pop
Buell. I work with USAID, and I am in
need of young women like you to become nurses at Sam Thong Hospital. Are you interested in trying it out? I highly recommend it as it will not only
provide you with a monthly income to support your family but most importantly,
your excellent English may benefit many people.
So, what do you think?”
She
didn’t know what to think, but to show respect to him—she replied
indifferently, “I’ll think about it.”
“Tell
me, what is your name?”
“It’s…N…Noog,”
she stammered saying her own name.
“Nong,”
he repeated with an accent. “That’s a
pretty name. I like it. Are you married yet, because if you are, we
will still take you no matter what?”
“No,
I’m not yet married.”
“Even
better. It’ll make everything easier for
all of us. Well, Miss Nong, I hope that you
will seriously consider this opportunity as we are in dire need of nurses.”
“I
will,” she replied.
“Well
then, it was nice to meet you,” he said and stuck out his right hand to wait
for a hand shake, “I guess we might meet each other again.”
She
nodded and accepted his friendly gesture by locking her right hand with his. Afterward, the American man disappeared into
the bustling market street. Noog Xi
watched his back until he completely disappeared, and then she stared blankly at
the words on the flyer. She felt
mentally exhausted, and folded the paper into a square. She tossed it into her basket, and walked
home.
***
Upon
her return, Niam Tais Paj and Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua were already back. Niam Tais Paj washed some mustard greens
outside while Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua sat near her, sharpening his knives with a
smooth brick rock. “Niam Tais! Yawm Txiv!” she called, “you two are back?”
They
both looked up. “Yes, daughter,” they
answered simultaneously.
“Where
did you go?” Niam Tais Paj asked.
“To
the market,” she replied, and hovered to Niam Tais Paj’s level to show the aunt
her basket of groceries. “Look! I bought pork, vegetables, and fruits!”
“If
you crave these foods, it’s a good thing to buy them. But, we are no longer self-subsistent. You must spend sparingly.”
“I’ll
heed your words,” she answered. She then
pulled out the bag of breads and offered one to Niam Tais Paj.
“What
is it?”
“It’s
stuffed taro bread!”
“Maybe
later.”
“What
about you, Yawm Txiv? Would you like to
have one now?”
“I
am still busy too. I’ll have it later,
daughter. Thank you.”
“Alright. I’ll leave it on the kitchen counter
then. Both of you each eat one!”
“Alright!”
they responded.
“Niam
Tais! Since the pork and vegetables
might spoil if we don’t eat them soon, how about I also prepare them for
dinner?”
“Sounds
good!” she replied. “Leave the
vegetables with me and I’ll help you rinse them.”
Noog
Xi pulled all the vegetables out and dumped them into Niam Tais Paj’s tin bowl
of dirtied water. Afterward, she stepped
inside the warm and stuffy house to prepare the meat, and helped Niam Tais Paj
made dinner.
When
they sat around the round bamboo-woven table consuming dinner that night, Niam
Tais Paj and Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua both ate silently and bleakly. It was an awkward mood to be in, so she
decided to brighten the atmosphere up.
“How
was your trip today? Did you two meet
any relatives?”
“We
did,” Niam Tais Paj answered. “We met a
few of Yawm Txiv’s cousins.”
“That
should be a happy occasion then. But why
do you both look so gloomy?”
“It’s
nothing, daughter. We are just a little
worried. That is all,” Yawm Txiv
answered.
“About
what?”
Niam
Tais Paj sighed. “Yawm Txiv and I found
out that there is no place for us to farm here.
We will get assistance once per month, but will it be enough to feed all
of us until the next month?” Niam Tais Paj questioned.
She
shook her head.
“With
so many refugees, I doubt our ration will be very big. Yawm Txiv and I are old. We are illiterate and know how to farm only. Without farm work, how are we going to make ends
meet?”
Yawm
Txiv Txooj Sua continued to eat his food silently. Using a stainless steel Thai soup spoon, Niam
Tais scooped some stock liquid from the bland mustard green soup and drank it
without a sound. She then laid the spoon
on top of her plate and stopped eating.
The
niece could tell that her aunt was in distress and having difficulty swallowing
food. Stress often caused her to behave
in such manner at the dining table. Staring
at her pitiful aunt, Noog Xi became speechless.
After
dinner, Niam Tais Paj and Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua went to bed. Unable to fall asleep, Noog Xi lay on her lev
bed and stared at the moon through the window in the main room. Since the moon was large, full and bright, she
could observe blotches of gray and black on the surface of the celestial
object. In ethnic Lao and Chinese
stories, a fair and kind-hearted maiden lived on the moon but in Hmong stories,
it was a wicked witch.
A
Hmong legend said that the shadows of the moon were leaves and branches of a vaj khaum—canopy, tree, where a wicked witch
who possessed a sharp liag—sickle,
lived. If one pointed a finger at the
moon, the witch would be angry and would lower her sickle to cut the ear of
that pointer when he or she was deep in sleep.
As
children, her grandfather had warned her and her siblings to never point a finger
at the moon. But she was a curious and
skeptical kid. Although frightened by
the story, she was also interested in finding out if there really was a wicked
witch living on the moon. Occasionally,
she would purposely point a finger at the moon, but her siblings were scared of
her ear being cut by the sharp liag that to help reverse her misdeed, they
would spread their saliva on the back of her ear and say twice the phrase,
“Muab quav qaib quav npua los pleev pob ntseg” or “Putting chicken and pig
feces to taint the ear.” In doing so, it
was believed that the witch would be disgusted at the site of chicken and pig
feces on the ear when she lowered her sickle that she would refuse to use her clean
sickle to cut the pointer’s ear. So,
whether the tale was true or not, she did not know for she never experienced it. But as a child, the moon remained mysterious
and creepy.
While
many years have passed already, the moon still appeared the same—cold and round. No matter how much crimson blood was shed on
Earth, the moon remained unstained and pure.
Noog Xi finally understood its story and the moon became less
frightening. The more she stared at it,
the beautiful it became and it made her nostalgic of him.
Although
the bright lights of Hanoi city often smeared the clarity and illumination of
the moon, perhaps it was its mystical aspect, which attracted the two to like
observing it whenever they could. They watched
the moon together when they were near and they watched it together when they
were far apart so that they would always feel each other’s presence. She wondered if he was admiring the moon that
night, at that same time too.
She
sighed. How wonderful it would be if
Earth was serene like the moon? Unfortunately,
Earth was not. Chaos, instability, and
war constantly plagued the breathing planet, and the mortals were caught in the
middle of it. Now, Niam Tais Paj and
Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua were feeling troubled and she felt helpless. Every time she closed her eyes, she saw their
gloomy faces staring at her like lost souls.
What could she do? The thought haunted
her and she fell asleep thinking about a way to help them out.
***
The
next morning, Noog Xi woke up before Niam Tais Paj and Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua to
make the morning meal. She began to cook
the rice, but accidentally hit something and heard a tumbling sound. She set the rice steamer on top of the pot of
water and quickly observed the ground for a fallen object. She saw the bamboo basket she bought the day
before, lying on the ground. She bent
down to pick it up. When she lifted the
bamboo basket up, she noticed a piece of paper folded into a square-shaped on
the ground. She picked it up and
unfolded it. She then realized that the
paper was that nurse recruitment flyer the American man gave to her.
“It
is not important,” she thought. “Just
throw it away!”
She
scrunched the paper into a ball and was about to toss it in the trashcan when
something stopped her. She decided to
open the flyer up and re-read it silently a few times. She then smiled faintly, as if she had found
the answer to a disturbing matter.
Although
she was hesitant to join the nursing program, she decided it was her best
option. Except for the few kips that her
youngest brother left her, she had no other source of income to help Niam Tais
Paj and Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua. She felt
indebted to them. They didn’t have to
take care of her, but they took her in and cared for her like their own
child. She would be unable to forgive
herself if she didn’t find a way to help to help the couple out, and continued
to let them to live in desolation. No,
she could not do that. She would work
hard to become a good nurse. Besides, she
figured that it shouldn’t be that bad. Because
of requirement and mere interest, she had taken basic biological courses at
Sidney. She just needed a little
refreshment to bring back her knowledge.
So
on the day as printed on the flyer, she got up early to prepare a meal for her
aunt and uncle. When dawn broke in the
eastern mountains, she left for the hospital grounds.
Sam
Thong Hospital did not resemble hospitals in Sidney. It was a single-story, tin roof facility with
thatched walls and wood flooring. The
hospital was divided into seven different sections. The central building composed of the
emergency and surgical units. Attached
on the right was a labor and delivery unit while on the left was the intensive
care unit. Two large recuperation wards,
consisting of 30 beds each, flanked the departments in the center of the
facility. There were also two clinics
positioned a few feet away from the main hospital; one was used to screen
refugees for health issues while the other treated malarial infections.
After
arriving at Sam Thong Hospital, Noog Xi sat for an hour alone in a conference
room located on the back end of the emergency department. She could tell that it was nearing noon as
the sun rays were beating warmly against her skin and the July air dried her
throat. It was until another hour later
that an American woman in a white nurse uniform appeared. She had short brown wavy hair, a high nose,
fair skin, and was a couple of inches taller than Noog Xi.
Following
closely behind her was a young Hmong man who looked like he was in his early
twenties. He had short, black hair and
wore a pair of khaki pants and a checkered button-up shirt. He and Noog Xi were about the same height. “Hello!” the nurse greeted.
The
girl nodded and could tell that the American nurse was surprised to see only her
in the room. “Are you the only one
here?”
Unaware
that Noog Xi knew English, the young man interpreted. “She asked to see if you are the only one
here.”
“Yes,”
she answered in Hmong. Then, she
switched to English. “Next time, you
don’t have to interpret for me. I
understand English too.”
The
young man was so surprised to hear a Hmong woman speak English that his wide
opened jaws can be stuffed with many spoonful of rice. “Unbelievable?” he remarked in English with a
thick Hmong accent.
The
nurse smiled. “You must be the young
lady that Pop told me about. My name is
Diana Dick,” she introduced, stretching out her hand to wait for Noog Xi’s hand. “I am an Internal Voluntary Services staff
member and head nurse here at Sam Thong Hospital. After hearing so much about you, it’s a pleasure
to finally meet.”
“Nice
to meet you too,” Noog Xi answered, putting forth her right hand.
When
the two drew their hands apart, the nurse turned to the young man on her left
side. “This is Lis Leev. He is a medic. His father is Lis Cai, the chief medic.”
“Nice
to meet you,” Noog Xi said and smiled at the young Hmong medic.
“Same
here,” he answered.
“So
what do we do?” Diana questioned. “We
have only you for the job and we need more people than that.”
Just
as Diana finished her remark, Pop Buell showed up.
“Pop!”
Lis Leev called.
“Where
are the recruits?” he asked.
“We
only got one, Pop,” Diana said.
Pop
turned his attention to Noog Xi. “You are
the young lady I met the other day who knew English. Am I correct?” he asked.
“Yes,
Sir,” Noog Xi remarked.
“Remind
me your name again, darling?”
“My last name is Yaj. First name is Noog.”
“Yes,
that’s right. It was Nong.”
“It
sounds beautiful. What does it mean?”
Diana asked.
“It
means bird.”
“It
sounds very nice,” Diana commented.
“Thank
you.”
“Wow,
so no one but you showed up,” Pop remarked in amazement. “What are we going to do? We need more than Diana and you if we are
going to successfully run this hospital.”
“I’m
sure if you use the right tactic, you’ll get many volunteers to do the job,” Noog
Xi suggested.
“Perhaps
you’re right,” Pop said. He then
pondered for a few seconds. “Maybe it’s
not such a bad idea to begin with just you only. Diana, why don’t we get Miss Nong started on
the training process? Once she can work
at your level, she can then recruit and teach the ethnic highlander girls
because language won’t be a problem for her.
In that way, we won’t need to bother Lis Leev here for interpretation
and can have him work elsewhere.”
“It
sounds like a plan.”
“What
about you, Nong?” Pop asked the girl.
“As
long as it’s something I can do, I will try my best,” she answered.
“I’m
glad to hear that. You will start your
training by taking courses in Vientiane.
Then, do you prefer clinical training in America or Thailand?”
“It
might have to be Thailand. My aunt and
uncle need my support here, and they would be worried if I suddenly move that far
away.”
“That’s
fine. Thailand is a good choice
too. But if you do change your mind
later on, America is still an option.”
“Understood.”
“After
your clinical training, you’ll return here to work with Diana. She’ll show you everything else you need to
learn and then we’ll go from there.”
“Don’t
worry. We’ll do our best to support you,”
Diana offered.
Noog
Xi nodded, and that was the deal! Although
her initial purpose in taking the job was to provide income to support Niam
Tais Paj and Yawm Txiv Txooj Sua, she never thought that this simple agreement to
earn a living would change her life forever.
No comments:
Post a Comment